Saturday, August 31, 2013

My Pilgrimage to Israel (2013) - Part Seven

Our group overlooking Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives (picture by James Stewart - again)

If Galilee is steeped in New Testament history, Jerusalem is where the Old Testament and New Testament converge.  The ancient Hebrew nation centered life and worship in the location (Mount Moriah) that Abraham warily took his son Issac with the intent of sacrificing him.  That act was merely foreshadowing the act of God sacrificing his own son.  Abraham told Isaac: "God himself will provide the lamb for the burnt offering, my son" (Genesis 22:8).  Abraham's lamb represented the Lamb of God that would be sacrificed thousands of years later.  We would retrace that Lamb's steps as he inched his way from the Mount of Olives...to the temple...to Golgotha or Calvary.

Bethphage Church (photo by James Stewart) - click to enlarge


Bethphage sits on the Mount of Olives and was an ancient village overlooking Jerusalem.  Jesus mounted the colt of a donkey and rode into Jerusalem on what is now celebrated as Palm Sunday.  It was to Bethphage that Jesus sent his disciples to find the donkey.  While standing here, you can almost imagine the crowds in the city awaiting his arrival while they celebrated Passover "Blessed is the King who comes in the name of the Lord!".  Even though Jesus told them, little did anyone know that his triumphal entry included scourging and crucifixion.  Again, he confounded man's earthly intellect with a story that could only be written by God.
David Hayes and me from where Jesus wept over the city of Jerusalem

We left Bethphage's Franciscan church by descending an ancient route quite undoubtedly used during Jesus' entry into the city.  This was a quiet and sunny Sunday morning perfect for this memorable part of our journey.  After a short time, we descended to a point where we could overlook the city of Jerusalem.  As Jesus descended into the city, he paused to mourn over Jerusalem and foretold the fall of the temple.  

Dominus Flevit Church commemorates where Jesus wept over Jerusalem (note the reflection of Jerusalem - photo by James Stewart)

Garden of Gethsemane
One of the most spiritually moving parts of our trip was our Sunday morning worship service in the Garden of Gethsemane.  So, we are walking along the trail of Jesus' descent and stopped in the garden where he prayed on the night of his arrest...incredible.  I could hardly believe that we were here.  But, to spend the Lord's day morning in worship here was absolutely amazing.  Jesus prayed here while James, John, and Peter slept (even though he kept asking them to stay awake).  He first prayed that the father would protect him from what was about to occur.  Jesus was afraid and wanted to be spared.  But, as his prayer continued, he understood and accepted the father's will.  I am deeply encouraged by a God who knows how it feels to be fearful and discouraged - who is comforted by the company of others during times of trial.  I am also encouraged that he forgave those slumbering disciples.    

Crown of Thorns Tree - Dominus Flevit






Our accompanying pastors led the worship service.  David offered a most appreciated opportunity for each of us to worship in quiet solitude.  As mentioned in an earlier blog post, our regular Sunday worship meetings include lengthy segments of silent prayer.  I have grown to greatly appreciate and rely upon this manner of worship.  So, I was heartened when David asked us to retreat into the garden for silent reflection.  We were to return to the group when we heard singing.  But, I decided to stay quietly next to that old olive tree and pray in silent thanksgiving.

Next stop:  Jerusalem

Tuesday, August 27, 2013

My Pilgrimage to Israel (2013) - Part Six

Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem (photo by James Stewart)
David told me that I would gain appreciation for the biblical concept of "the ascent to Jerusalem" during the bus ride from Qumran to Jerusalem.  He was right.  As we drove along the West Bank highway toward the city of Jerusalem, the nose of our bus pointed upward - and the engine groaned the entire way.  We were ascending to Jerusalem along the Judean Hills (desert hills not unlike those surrounding Jericho).  This ascent is also a foreshadowing of the coming ascent to the heavenly Jerusalem and also traces the ascent of Jesus to Jerusalem as he journeyed toward his crucifixion.   

During each leg of our trip to Israel, we would pause to read scripture that was related to the area we were visiting.  I had volunteered to read for the group as needed and was asked to read various passages from Psalms into a microphone as we drove up the incline toward Jerusalem.  While I sat in a small seat near our Palestinian bus driver, I had a perfect view through the massive windshield on this very sunny day.  Reading the Psalms seemed easy enough - until it wasn't.  As I finished the final passage, as if  exactly on queue, we rounded the mountain to see the city of Jerusalem appear on the hill ahead.  It was a breathtaking site and invokes one to wonder what Christ thought as he walked this path toward his crucifixion...we would have many more opportunities to reflect on his experience during the days ahead. 

 "I lift up my eyes to the mountains - where does my help come from?  My help comes from the Lord, the Maker of heaven and earth.  He will not let your foot slip - he who watches over you will not slumber; indeed, he who watches over Israel will neither slumber nor sleep.  The Lord watches over you - the Lord is you shade at your right hand; the sun will not harm you by day, nor the moon by night.  The Lord will keep you from all harm - he will watch over your life; the Lord will watch over your life; the Lord will watch over your coming and going both now and forevermore." - Psalm 121 (Song of Ascent)

Today, we would drive through Jerusalem into the once small village of Bethlehem - now a Palestinian city within the West Bank.  My perception of Bethlehem had always been that it was located far away from other cities and towns.  However,it sits only 2 or 3 miles outside of the large city of Jerusalem.  Again, the close proximity of these sites astounds me.  It is a perspective that is hard to have without physically experiencing it.

Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem (photo by James Stewart)
The Door of Humility


The first site we visited was the Church of the Nativity.  The original basilica built on this site was in 327 AD by Helena the mother of the Emperor Constantine (Helena was responsible for many of the sites we visited during the trip).  The original building was destroyed and another rebuilt on the same site in 565 AD.  There is significant evidence that this church sits upon the actual site on which Christ was born.

On a building this large, one would expect a grand entry.  However, the Door of Humility is a small door through which you have to stoop to enter.  This door is the main entrance.  Much like the act of being on one's knees during prayer has a positive effect, the act of stooping while entering such a place reflects our reverence.  As I walked through, I reached up to touch the doorway and paused in a moment of thanksgiving.

We entered the cave where Jesus was born where we stayed for a few minutes and contemplated the significance of the place.  Why did our really big God choose a small humble stable cave for the birth of his only son?  How significant is the fact that Jesus was not born in a palace?  What does God want us to learn from this?  Most followers of Christ believe that he wanted to reinforce that the true kingdom is not of this world, that his values are not the same as the world's and pride should have no place in a person's heart.  That God has a deep affection for the lowly and the least.   


The star on the floor marks the traditional location of Jesus' birth

After leaving the Church of the Nativity, we visited Shepherd's Field and Grotto.  You will recall that an angel appearing to the shepherds of the field in order to inform them of Jesus' birth.  This field may or may not be that same field but, it doesn't matter.  It is serene and was certainly a shepherd's field close to the birthplace of Jesus.  "An angel of the Lord appeared to them, and the glory of the Lord shone around them, and they were terrified.  But, the angel said to them, "Do not be afraid.  I bring you good news that will bring great joy for all the people.  Today in the town of David a savior has been born to you; he is the Messiah, the Lord." - Luke 2:9-11



Shepherd's Field and Grotto - Bethlehem

To imagine that scene while visiting here might only be better at night - maybe on Christmas Eve.  We were again reminded that God chose the lowly when he chose shepherds to announce the coming of the Jesus.  Pride should have no place in a person's heart and the shepherds had nothing of which to be proud.  They were second-class citizens in their time.  While man had determined that a shepherd's testimony could not be consider valid in any court, God felt different about the idea of social status.  In fact, he allowed them to be witness to a most important event, the birth of the Lord.  They must have felt pretty good about their role and how God has a deep affection for the lowly and the least.

Next stop:  The Mount of Olives, Jerusalem

Saturday, August 17, 2013

My Pilgrimage to Israel (2013) - Part Five

Jericho - the oldest city in the world
Leaving the Galilee region of Israel, we drove along the Jordan River that runs along the border of Israel and Jordan.  During the drive, we could see the countries of Syria, Lebanon, and Jordan for a short time.  While the Galilee region is lush with green plant life, much of the area of the West Bank lying east of the mountain range is extremely arid.  The rocky peaks along the road toward Jericho are speckled with caves that have housed people for thousands of years.  At one point during the drive through Samaria, Tsippi pointed to the top of a nearby hill where Jacob's well is located.

Mt Nebo as seen from Jericho

Without much background, the story of Jesus speaking to the Samaritan woman at this well, would not seem unusual.  The meer fact that Jesus was in the vicinity of Samaria was radical enough.  But, to be speaking to an Samaritan woman who had been divorced 5 times and was living with another man was considered outrageous.  Samaritans were considered unclean and not to be associated with - add this background about the woman and you can imagine how scandalous this must have been (even Jesus' disciples questioned him).  But, again Jesus demonstrated that he came not to condemn but to save.  I'm not sure who the Samaritans of our day are...but, I think we could name a few if we thought about it long enough.


Greek Orthodox - Monastery of Temptation



Jericho is the oldest city in the world.  It sits across the River Jordan from Mount Nebo.  You may recall that Moses never stepped foot on the soil of the promised land of Israel.  He stood on the top of Mount Nebo from where he saw this place...and was buried there after freeing the Hebrew nation from the slavery in the land of Egypt.  The city was taken by the Hebrews led by Joshua without military force. Again, God didn't want anyone to be confused about who was responsible for the city being delivered to the Israelites.  God gave Joshua instructions that must have had the Israelites questioning their sanity: march around, blow trumpets, and yell really loud.  That's it.  The walls fell.  God did it.

Sitting above the city, the Monastery of Temptation is carved into the mountainside.  This ancient monastery sits above a cave thought to be where Jesus spent some of his 40 days of temptation in the wilderness while meditating and fasting.  Jesus also healed Bartimaeus of his blindness in Jericho.

Next, we went to Qumran which sits in the Judean desert next to the Dead Sea.  As Jericho is the oldest city in the world, the Dead Sea is the lowest place on the planet.  Outside of the small visitor center, this place seems to be stuck in the Old Testament ages.  That time in history is appropriate because this is where the Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered.  These scrolls, written by an ancient Jewish sect called the Essenes, included all but one book of the Old Testament and are dated to approximately 400 BC.  

Qumran - photo by James Stewart

The scrolls have helped substantiate the fact that the Bible is the most recounted ancient manuscript known to exist.  It is entirely unique among antiquities in that hundreds of iterations from different sources reaffirm the same stories.  The scrolls were written to preserve the word of God and have also reaffirmed what our Bibles contain.  


Essene Scroll Writing Room (Dead Sea in background)








Within the scrolls, the Book of Isaiah was found to be accurate matching our current translations down to the most minute details.  "But he was pierced for our transgressions, he was crushed for our iniquities; the punishment that brought us peace was upon him, and by his wounds we are healed.  We all, like sheep, have gone astray, each of us has turned to his own way; and the LORD has laid on him the iniquity of us all." - Isaiah 53:5-6.  

These words were written by the prophet Isaiah 600 years before Jesus was crucified.  Also, Isaiah 53 is extremely fascinating in that it contains the only physical description of Jesus in the Bible:  "He had no beauty or majesty to attract us to him, nothing in his appearance that we should desire him.  He was despised and rejected by mankind, a man of suffering, and familiar with pain.  Like one from whom people hide their faces he was despised, and we held him in low esteem."  Next stop Bethlehem...where he was born.


Thursday, August 8, 2013

My Pilgrimage to Israel (2013) - Part Four

Capernaum was home to several apostles - pictured are disciples from our tour group
Before this trip, I could not imagine being in any one of the locations we have visited.  On this day, we had been to four significant biblical sites and it wasn't even time for lunch!  After the Mount of Beatitudes and some very deep and meaningful worship, we entered one of the most significant towns in the New Testament:  Capernaum.  Several of Jesus' apostles came from this ancient fishing village located on the northern shore of the Sea of Galilee.  Simon Peter, James, John, Andrew, and Matthew are believed to be from Capernaum.  The Gospels recount that Jesus taught in the synagogue in this town.  He also healed many people including Peter's mother-in-law and the paralytic [that was lowered through the ceiling to reach Jesus] here.

4th Century synagogue which sits upon one in which Jesus taught
(the darker stone at the bottom is the original's foundation)
Amazingly, excavations have revealed the remains of the original synagogue where Jesus taught.  That synagogue is located directly beneath a second, 4th century synagogue.  We stood directly over the site where the Messiah taught: "I am the bread of life.  Whoever comes to me will never go hungry, and whoever believes in me will never be thirsty".

Within yards of this amazing site, there is also a church built over the home of the Simon Peter: this village was inhabited from the time of Christ until the 4th century.  During the 4th century, it was discovered that one of the homes underwent a great transformation that included meticulous care and inscriptions on the walls, plaster flooring, and ceremonial lighting.  Later, a church was built directly over this same home.  This site is the home of St. Peter.

A Catholic Church straddles Simon Peter's home

The town of Capernaum - The Sea of Galilee is in the background
I, like so many other Christians, can relate to Peter.  He was an exuberant follower of Christ that was simply a knucklehead at times.  One minute Peter asked Jesus to help him to walk on water.  The next, he is scared and lacking faith to the degree that he begins sinking.  Thinking that he needed to protect Jesus, he cut off a soldier's ear (that Jesus then healed) then only hours later denied he even knew Jesus.  After spending three years with Jesus, Peter still couldn't grasp what Jesus meant.  But, when he finally did, he became so very instrumental in growing the church.  Peter gives hope to many that realize that God used, and continues to use, the most unlikely of characters to accomplish his purposes.  It is one of the most reaffirming stories in the Bible.          

Next, we visited a local museum that featured a 1st century fishing boat that had been recently located in the Sea of Galilee.  The boat is believed to be of typical design as those used during the time of Jesus.  We then boarded a boat for a trip across the very body of water where Jesus walked upon water.  Once in the middle of the lake, we cut the engine and enjoyed a devotional on the calm, quiet waters of the Sea of Galilee.  These moments were deeply appreciated as they allowed for silent reflection.  The Quaker tradition of worship incorporates a fair amount of silence.  It is during this time that these disciples listen to the Spirit of God...or just pray silently.  We also share or testify to one another if the Spirit moves us to do so.  For most of the week, I took advantage of every opportunity to worship in this manner.  It was fantastic.

Sea of Galilee by boat - picture by James Stewart
    
For lunch, we ate St. Peter's fish!  The type of fish we ate is the only fish that is native only to these waters.  They are plentiful...and delicious.  It was a nice way to honor this place.  Soon after lunch, we went to the Jordan River baptismal site where I was baptized by Pastor David Hayes.  These are the waters in which John the Baptist baptized Jesus: "And when Jesus was baptized, immediately he went up from the water, and behold, the heavens were opened to him, and he saw the spirit of God descending like a dove and coming to rest on him."  Several of us took part in water baptism.  I was pleased to have the opportunity to share in the tradition of water baptism with other disciples in the waters where Jesus was baptized.  The river was very cold.  But, I felt nothing but blessed.

Next stop:  Jericho (the oldest city in the world) and Qumran